Office refugee: Audi A3 Rear Wiper Motor Replacement

How to replace a failed rear wiper motor

Audi A3 Sportback 8P 2003-2013

If you search Google you quickly realise that rear wiper motor failure is a common problem for the Audi A3 as it gets older. I have an Audi A3 Sportback 2006. Although car is still in pretty good shape for it's age, it's now on it's third rear wiper motor.

The wiper motor failure seems to be the result of water from the washer leaking into the motor and over time causes it to eventually burn out. This may be compounded by any blockage or if it freezes in winter.

Firstly, I'll say that this is written from the perspective of someone with a reasonable set of basic tools and willing to tackle some basic car related jobs. If you're technically minded, have the tools and like this sort of thing then this is probably an easy job.

How long does it take and how much does it cost?

With the replacement motor and the correct tools shown here, you're good to go. I would estimate the job can be done within 1 hour. As always, good preparation is key. I paid €100 for an original equipment manufacturers (OEM) motor made in Spain by Valeo. I would recommend this option. However, if you're really on a tight budget then unbranded motors can be bought for about £35 on eBay UK. This seems a bit too cheap to me and makes me wonder how long it would last. I estimate you'll save about €100/£100 fitting it yourself compared to an independent garage. The saving is probably double that compared to going to a main dealer.

In my experience these 'easy' jobs often aren't. I discover there's a specialist tool I don't have or something breaks in the process. Many people, myself included, resent having to buy a tool you might only need once. However, for this job you'll need just that to get the rear wiper arm off. Don't let that put you off as the tool isn't expensive to buy.

There's some good Youtube videos, but I found that each one had some details missing. I wanted to write a more detailed instruction guide based on my own experience.

The new wiper motor I purchased is the third my car has had. The original one lasted 13 years but the subsequent replacement lasted just four years. The original one burnt out on my regular commute to work. The first thing I noticed was a worrying smell of burning plastic followed by some smoke coming from it. I was actually quite worried the car was going to catch fire at that point, but fortunately it didn't.

Because the second wiper motor failed in the middle of a cold winter I didn't want to try and fit it myself outside so I paid a local garage. My Audi dealer had quoted over €300 from memory so I went to an independent garage which cost me €225. That was fine but I soon noticed that when the new wiper motor was activated there was an annoying whining sound from the movement. I decided I could live with that on the occassions it was raining. I since read that the cheaper after market motors can do this - arrrh.

Fast forward four years and that replcement motor decided to give up one day after emitting foul burning plastic smell. However, this time during the summer so I decided to tackle it myself.

I started by attempting to remove the wiper arm as I gathered this is the most difficult part of the job. I've seen videos where someone wiggles the wiper and removes it. I decided to try this method before spending any money on a removal tool. Needless to say it didn't work for me. I decided not to apply any more force and risk breaking the wiper arm itself and buy a tool. The tool I bought was branded MTX and described as a ´battery terminal/wiper arm removal tool` I paid €14.90. This turns out to be money well spent.

If you search battery terminal/wiper arm removal tool you should find some.

I've read that lots of people remove the wiper arm completely and replace it with just a blank grommit. This is usually referred to as 'wiper delete' or 'wiper erase' and there are kits sold just for this purpose. Some people do this becasue don't want to spend the money on a new motor while others feel it looks better without a wiper. Personally, I like to keep my car looking and working as it was intended to be. I also like to have good rear visibility when it's raining.

Replacement wiper motor

I purchased a new Valeo wiper motor which is the OEM (original equipment manufactuer) from a local store for €100, which was about the same price as from Autodoc. My previous motor was an unbranded replacement which was noisier than the Valeo version. For that reason alone I would recommend buying Valeo. As mentioned earlier, there's plenty of cheap ones on eBay for £35 if you're on a tight budget, but I can't vouch for how good these are.

The OEM part number is 579603

The Valeo makers Number is 6FF100036J64G

There's not much visually to differentiate between the new Valio OEM wiper motor and my burnt out old unbranded motor. The Valio one has the paper label and also has more makers marks stamped into the plastic case on the reverse side.

Tools needed

Tools 1-5 (or equivilant) are essential in my opinion, while 6 and 7 are optional.

1. Torx T20. Either a torx T20 screwdriver or standard screwdriver fitted with T20 bit as in the photo. This is for removing the boot trim.

2. Ratchet. I used a ratchet but it could be done using a 10mm and 13mm spanner.

3. 10mm ratchet bit to remove the screws holding on the wiper motor on the inside boot lid.

4. 13mm ratchet bit to remove the screw on the wiper arm.

5. Battery terminal/wiper arm removal tool or another similar puller tool may also work.

6. Small screwdriver to remove the water jet nozzle from the wiper arm.

7. Trim removal tool to help take off the boot panel trip.

No. 5 is a tool specifically for removing car battery terminals or wiper arms. I first attempted to remove it without this and it didn't work. The tool worked very well and results in a 'pop' as it releases itself.

You'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration if you buy the tool first. I paid €15 for mine. I read that some people have managed to use other types of puller tools.

I decided to invest in a 'upholstory and panel removal tool' set. This made removing the boot panel easier, but could be done just by pulling firmly. This five piece set cost €13. A useful set of tools to have if you're a fixer at heart. Made of strong plastic means there's no risk of permanently scratching anything.

MTX upholstory and panel removal tool set

1. Remove wiper arm

I decided to start by removing the wiper arm as this was the most difficult part.

1.1 Remove protective cover

The protective cover clips on and off

The protective cover can be removed by hand. Simply take one edge firmly and pull towards you. It should unclick from it’s fasteners.

Protective cover

1.2 Remove washer jet nozzle

Use something like a small flat end screwdriver to prize it off.

13mm nut after removing the protective cover and washer nozzle

Washer jet nozzle

A closeup showing the splines on the inside edge of the wiper arm

1.3 Remove the 13mm screw using a ratchet or suitable spanner.

1.4 Remove the wiper arm

I would highly recommend using a battery terminal/wiper arm removal tool. I tried to wiggle it off but it didn’t work. The correct tool worked well so I wouldn’t waste any time trying another method.

The wiper arm removal tool in action

The puller tool doesn’t need instructions as it’s pretty clear how to attach. Having said that, when I initially tried it looked like it was too short but after further adjustment it was fine. Once mounted, slowly turn the handle clockwise. After a short time it should 'pop' off.

I didn't remove the rubber grommet in the hole. If you do remove it to clean, then when replacing make sure the the writing is on the inside. The outside has a triangle embossed into it, which I believe should be at the top edge.

2. Remove inner boot trim

First remove two T20 torx screws on the inside of the boot trim.

Location for one of the two screws which need to be removed. The second is to the right of the photo.

The two T20 torx screws

Boot trim panel after removal

Then either use a trim removal tool around the gap to release the metal spring clips holding it on. This can also be done without a tool by just pulling firmly towards you. Don’t worry if any clips drop out. These can easily be re-fitted by squeezing together and sliding into the runner on the panel. There are 5 of these clips. Re-fitting the trim panel is straightforward with perhaps a little wiggling to get all clips pushed into place.

3. Remove wiper motor

Rear boot tailgate with panel removed

Location of the wiper motor inside the boot lid

3.1 Unplug the water pipe from the motor

The pipe is a tight fit but just needs a wiggle and firm tug to pull it off.

The black water hose and wiring connector

The water hose disconnected

3.2 Disconnect the wires by sliding the connector out

3.3 Remove the three 10mm screws holding the motor in place

The motor can then be simply lifted out. Replace with the new motor and secure back with the screws, reconnect wires and water pipe.

The three 10mm screws holding the wiper motor in place

I didn't replace the rubber grommit

I added a small amount of universal grease to the spindle on the new motor.

Test the motor to make sure it works before replacing the boot trim or wiper arm. This will also make sure the wiper arm will be in the correct position. My wiper motor died with the arm in the wrong position so I switched it on a full turn so it was in the correct position before re-attaching the wiper arm to the motor spindle.

Repace the washer jet nozzle, wiper arm and plastic cover.

I didn’t replace any of the screws or other parts as all were in serviceable condition.

I was pleased to find that the wiper motor operated quieter than the previous replacement.

Before repair

After repair

How to avoid this happening again

In future I will probably avoid using the wiper with the washer since it seems to be water ingress which causes these to fail. I’m sure that if I only use it to clear the rear windscreen when raining, it will last much longer this time.

Update

I decided to open up the old rear wiper motor and inspect the inside before I binned it. To my surprise it wasn't a sealed unit and was easily opened using standard phillips screwdriver.

As you can see from the photos below, it was certainly dirty inside from water ingress. I couldn't see any obvious signs of failure but I assume the fact that there was burning means the motor burnt out. I've read of some people who managed to dismantle, clean it and it did work again. Perhaps this is possible if it just stops working without any burning smell?